Tag Archive for: Copyright

By Nathan Drake

RunwayThe wildly popular and quickly emerging fashion giant, Forever 21, has endured numerous obstacles since its inception into the fashion industry 27 years ago. Recently however, Forever 21 has encountered a new type of hurdle; copyright infringement. In the January 24th edition of Bloomberg Businessweek, Susan Berfield explains, “Starting in about 2004…labels ranging from Diane von Furstenberg to Anna Sui to Anthropologie, about 50 in all, separately sued Forever 21 for copying their clothes.” According to Susan Scafidi, a copyright professor at Fordham University Law School and director of the Fashion Law Institute, “Of the various fast fashion chains, Forever 21 is the one who treats liability as a cost of doing business…Illegal copying has been incorporated into their business model.” In response to this increasing litigation and skewed mentality in the fashion industry, numerous senators, including Senator Schumer and Senator Clinton, introduced a bill in 2006 amending Title 17 of the Copyright Act of 1976 of the United States Code to include copyright protection for “fashion design.” If it passes, this would represent the first addition of a new protected class of copyrighted works since Congress passed the Architectural Works Copyright Protection Act in 1989.

Consequently, the question that looms in the minds of those opposing copyright protection for fashion design is simple: How does one successfully and fairly protect something as functional and practical as clothing? While certain designers and fashion lines will have their own character and price tag, allowing certain individuals to own sleeve designs or collar configurations would prove absurd and oppressive. Just as architecture laws do not provide copyright protection for “functional elements,” such as doors, windows, walls or ceilings, fashion design is limited in what it can deem copyrightable, i.e., original, due to the utilitarian use of clothing.

Support for copyright protection in the fashion industry has gained a backing from several prominent designers and New York’s Council of Fashion Designers of America, according to Louis S. Ederer and Maxwell Preston of Arnold and Porter LLP. The main opponent of the bill has been the American Apparel and Footwear Association. As Preston and Ederer explain, the AAFA has opposed the bill for several reasons, including, but not limited to ambiguous language in prosecuting copyright infringement and the perceived lack of resources to accommodate the influx of applications the Copyright Office would likely encounter. In response to these complaints, Senator Schumer and his colleagues have revised and submitted a new bill to the Senate as of August 5, 2010 (S. 3728).

In the eyes of the law, clothing serves a “utilitarian” purpose in covering a person’s body, so attempting to separate the fashion design from the clothing becomes a very difficult task. Essentially, the copyright law wants to prevent functional styles, such as the collared shirt or the “v-neck,” to remain unprotected due to the utilitarian and practical purpose it provides. To assure this, the current requirements of the Copyright Act would still apply, i.e.¸ that the fashion design would need possess a “modicum” of originality in order to be eligible for copyright protection. The current draft of the S. 3728 specifically states that the fashion design must “provide a unique, distinguishable non-trivial and non-utilitarian variation over prior designs for similar types of articles” (Section 2(a)(2)(B)(ii)).

Furthermore, while there is no perfect answer for an issue as complex as copyright protection for fashion design, working to promote a healthy industry by awarding creativity is an important principle. The revised bill, currently cNathanalled the “Innovative Design Protection and Piracy Prevention Act” was introduced on August 5, 2010 and remains in the Senate to be discussed and voted on.

The author, Nathan Drake is a senior at Belmont University from Northville, Michigan who graduates in May with a degree in Music Business from the Mike Curb School of Music Business. Nathan currently clerks for Mr. Barry Neil Shrum at Shrum & Associates in Nashville, Tennessee.  He plans on pursuing a law degree after graduation.

References

Berfield, Susan. “Forever 21’s Fast (and Loose) Fashion Empire.” Bloomberg BusinessWeek. 20 Jan. 2011. Web. 14 Feb. 2011. <http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/11_05/b4213090559511_page_2.htm>.

“Copyright Law of the United States.” U.S. Copyright Office. Oct. 2009. Web. 7 Feb. 2011. <Copyright.gov>.

Ederer, Louis S., and Maxwell Preston. “The Innovative Design Protection and Piracy Prevention Act – Fashion Industry Friend or Faux?” Business Solutions & Software for Legal, Education and Government | LexisNexis. 25 Aug. 2010. Web. 07 Feb. 2011. <http://www.lexisnexis.com/Community/copyright-trademarklaw/blogs/fashionindustrylaw/archive/2010/08/25/the-innovative-design-protection-and-piracy-prevention-act-fashion-industry-friend-or-faux.aspx>.

Schumer, Charles. “Bill Text – 111th Congress (2009-2010).” THOMAS (Library of Congress). 5 Aug. 2010. Web. 07 Feb. 2011. http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/D?c111:1:./temp/~c11198mPaA::.

http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&MarketPlace=US&ID=V20070822%2FUS%2Flaonthro-20%2F8003%2Fd165249f-2e13-49d1-b52a-7ea196c1a038&Operation=GetDisplayTemplate Amazon.com Widgets[/fusion_builder_column][/fusion_builder_row][/fusion_builder_container]

The Senate Judiciary Committee is holding a high-profile hearing  today on the subject of imposing additional performance royalties on so-called “over-the-air” or “terrestrial” radio stations (I’ll just call them OTA’s in this article).  Investigative hearings such as these are usually precursors to legislation being introduced on the subject.  898993_antenna_4Grammy winner, Lyle Lovett and Chicago-based singer-songwriter Alice Peacock testified before the Committee this morning at 9:30 ET.  Their testimony was broadcast live at C-SPAN.

So, what is the issue.  OTA’s and the music industry are currently engaged in one of the biggest industry and lobbying battles to hit Washington in quite some time.  The OTA’s fired a recent shot when a concurrent resolution was passed by Congress.  Now, the music industry is firing back. 

One of my recent blog entitled New concurrent resolution, H.Con.Res 244, introduced to combat performance royalties for record labels gives some background on the issue, which is basically this:  Currently, OTA’s pay performance royalties to ASCAP, BMI and SESAC in the U.S. for airplay performances of the musical composition copyright.  They do not, however, pay a performance royalty to the owners of the sound recording copyright for over the air performances of the copyright.  The sound recording copyright is distinct from the musical composition copyright.

This is because when Congress introduced new legislation in the mid-90’s to grant sound recording copyright owners a right to performance royalties, it specifically excluded OTA’s from the legislation on the basis that the artists and record labels who owned the sound recording copyrights benefited from the publicity of over the air performances, which offset the need for payment of a performance royalty.    Keep in mind, again, that this does not apply to the performance royalties paid to songwriters and music publishers.

The effect of the Digital Performance Royalty in Sound Recordings Act of 1995 is that only digital performances of the sound recording copyrights are entitled to compensation.  This applies only to Internet webcasters, Cable Radio and Satellite radio stations.  These types of services — Pandora, Sirius, XM Radio, Last.fm, for example — pay performance royalties to both the owners of the musical composition copyright and the sound recording copyright.  Many industry groups are rallying to rectify what is viewed as an unfair advantage for OTA’s.

One such group is musicFIRST, which stands for “fairness in radio starting today.”  This organization is made up of a large and impressive group of recording industry groups and well-known artists.  Unfortunately, the RIAA’s involvement in this organization has diminished its reputation on many blogs, such as this article entitled Lovett goes to bat for radio royalties, the credibility of which is call into doubt by the fact that the writer is ostensibly unaware of Lyle Lovett’s reputation and notoriety.  But don’t make the mistake of slanting your opinion against musicFIRST based on that organization’s involvement.  Check out the website and seriously consider the issues and you’ll probably understand their perspective.

There is tremendous validity to the argument that radio broadcasts no longer hold the same sway over consumers that they did in 1995.  One research study conducted by Dr. Stan Leibowitz, an economics professor at the University of Texas, compared record sales and music radio listening habits in nearly 100 cities across the United States and found that exposure for a song on the radio was a substitute for purchasing the music and, therefore, actually had a negative impact on sales of music.  Critics point out that the study was funded, at least in part, by the musicFIRST coalition and say that there are studies which indicate the opposite, that is that radio airplay stimulates interests in new music and therefore encourages sales.  Think about your own habits – when was the last time you heard a song on the car radio and rushed to buy it?

Another argument propounded by the OTA’s in opposition to payment of royalties to the owners of sound recording copyrights is that it would put them out of business.  They simply can’t afford to pay more royalties for the music they use.  Of course, Internet webcasters and Satellite and Cable radio providers are saying “talk to the hand . . . call waiting!”   But the truth is that OTA’s get the bulk of their revenue from advertisers and their revenue increases if they attract larger audience by playing the latest music.  Furthermore, stock analysts are predicting that advertising revenues, in general, are on the increase for the foreseeable future.  One researcher, George Williams, reportedly found that the annual growth of radio advertising rates from 1996 to March 2007 was 10% a year, outpacing the Consumer Price Index by more than three times its 3% a year rate.  It is very doubtful that OTA’s revenues would be seriously altered by this legislation, in fact, the OTA’s would more than likely simply pass the additional costs on to advertisers.

The bottom line, in my view, is that the legislation, when it is finally proposed, will create a level playing field for the broadcasting industry, providing that both digital and OTA’s pay the same royalties.  This seems fair, doesn’t it?  Now, whether the powerful OTA lobby will prevent the passage of such legislation is a blog for another day. 

Technorati Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,